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    <loc>https://www.medievaltailor.net/blog</loc>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.medievaltailor.net/blog/golden-egg-summary</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2026-06-16</lastmod>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Blog - Golden Egg: Summary - Intro slide</image:title>
      <image:caption>Golden Egg Challenge: create a set of mid-late 15th century clothes to include underwear, hose, undershirt, and a doublet, fitting of a wealthy Burgundian</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Blog - Golden Egg: Summary - Underwear: short braies</image:title>
      <image:caption>Summary slide on underwear, with a photo of the final product alongside two examples of historical depictions. The comment reads: “If I made these again, I think probably be a bit braver and make them about an inch or so narrower in the hips and shorter in the legs, just to make them fit more closely and bring them slightly closer to the artwork - it would also give me an excuse to try out that short split in the side-seam we see in some of the art.”</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Blog - Golden Egg: Summary - Hose: joined and footed</image:title>
      <image:caption>Two examples of historical depictions of hose, both from Justice of Emperor Otto III: Beheading of the Innocent Count and Ordeal by Fire, alongside a photo of the black fabric used for the hose, with the outline and seam allowance marked in white chalk. The comment beneath reads: “Hose were made from a 2/2 twill, cut on the bias for maximum stretch.”</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Blog - Golden Egg: Summary - Undershirt</image:title>
      <image:caption>Two examples of depictions of undershirts from contemporary sources, alongside the final reconstruction. Text beneath reads: “Rectangular construction from fine white linen, with armpit gussets and a ”boat” neckline. This shirt hem reaches the top of my hips and has inserted hip godets for flare, because I didn’t want to be tucking a bunch of fabric into my hose. However, I’d still like to try a shirt that reaches mid-thigh and has side slits, which appears to be more common from the (limited) portraiture available.”</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/65095d1fd2196d002e49f67c/1781616938410-EBM6779H07O6U2ZK3VIL/5.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Golden Egg: Summary - Doublet: Burgundian style with cut-away vfront and shoulder bolsters</image:title>
      <image:caption>3 examples of depictions of this style of doublet in contemporary artwork. They are cited as: Bouts, Justice of Emperor Otto III: Beheading of the Innocent Count and Ordeal by Fire (detail), 1473-5; Cod.2533, fol. 17r: Les Chroniques de Jérusalem abrégées (French): The Fortification of Jaffa (detail), c.1450; and Ms 9243, Chroniques de Hainaut Vol. 2, p.153 (detail), 1467-8</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Blog - Golden Egg: Summary - Doublet: construction – padding/ support</image:title>
      <image:caption>Images of the layout of the doublet padding, the interlining padstitched to the outer fabric, and the chest padding quilted to the lining. Text beneath the images reads: “Wool melton was pad-stitched to the canvas interlining and wool outer fabric, to shape the garment and provide structure to the upper chest, back and collar. Cotton batting was quilted to the lining to give the rounded “pigeonfront” chest seen in the artwork.” The padding diagram is taken from Susan Reed’s page “15th Century Men’s Doublets: An Overview”.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/65095d1fd2196d002e49f67c/1781616939825-QQESUVB3QG5TRO3ZL3UR/7.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Golden Egg: Summary - Doublet: construction – shoulder bolsters</image:title>
      <image:caption>Photo of a dark red wool doublet on a mannequin, with the bolster in progress. Text on the right reads: “The sleeve is made up of two parts: a lower sleeve and an upper sleeve (starting from around the bicep). The upper sleeve is cut much wider than the lower, and is gathered onto the top of the lower sleeve and interlining. Two crescent-shaped bolster supports were made up of cotton roving stuffed into linen tubes, and attached to the shoulder seam and the upper sleeve seam. The loose edge of the upper sleeve was then turned up over the supports, and felled down onto the shoulder seam.”</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Blog - Golden Egg: Summary</image:title>
      <image:caption>“The doublet is made of a dark red heavily fulled wool that is an approximation of medieval broadcloth, with a linen canvas interlining and a fine white linen lining. Construction seams and interior stitching were done with white linen thread, and any visible stitching such as eyelets in matching dark red silk thread. Weyden, St John Altarpiece (right panel) (detail), 1455-60 I decided on having zero ease at the waist (rather than having any negative ease to provide the waist cinching seen in portraiture), for greater comfort. It has been flat-lined rather than bag-lined, as seems more common for medieval garments.” This text is accompanied by a photo of the doublet, and an image of the St John Altarpiece by Rogier van der Weyden (1455-60), showing a man with his doublet shrugged off his shoulders and worn hanging from his waist, revealing the lining and construction.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Blog - Golden Egg: Summary - What's next?</image:title>
      <image:caption>Short pleated gown: example from KBR ms.9261, Recueil de histoires de Troie Vol. 1, frontispiece (detail), c.1466. Poulaines: KBR, ms. 9244, Chroniques de Hainaut vol.3 p.337, c.1468. Belt pouches: “court” vs “everyday” - KBR, ms. 9278-80, f. 1, Débat d’honneur frontispiece (detail), 1450+; and ONB, cod. 2549 69r, Roman de Girart de Roussillon, c.1451.</image:caption>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.medievaltailor.net/blog/shaping-the-body</loc>
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    <lastmod>2026-06-16</lastmod>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.medievaltailor.net/blog/medieval-underwear</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2024-12-15</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/65095d1fd2196d002e49f67c/ac99ef68-e89d-4b2f-bb14-4019e5fb3413/Lengberg+braies.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - The ins-and-outs of late medieval underwear - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Lengberg Castle, East-Tyrol: pair of linen male underpants (University of Innsbruck, Institute for Archaeologies)</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Blog - The ins-and-outs of late medieval underwear - Rueland Frueauf the Younger, The Crucifixion (detail), 1496</image:title>
      <image:caption>This underwear is notably not white, but it’s hard to tell without more evidence whether this is just artistic license or whether dyed underwear was a thing in the late medieval period. It should be noted that linen is notoriously difficult to dye.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Blog - The ins-and-outs of late medieval underwear - Hans Memling, Triptych of the Resurrection: The Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian (detail), 1485-90</image:title>
      <image:caption />
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/65095d1fd2196d002e49f67c/1695306513386-JHTQ3MWQXSBRHJNGYH1C/Antonello_da_Messina_-_St._Sebastian_-_Google_Art_Project%2B2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - The ins-and-outs of late medieval underwear - Antonello da Messina, St Sebastian (detail), 1477-9</image:title>
      <image:caption>This pair interestingly seems to have a seam just off centre front. The drawstring is also a cord, rather than a strip of fabric sewn into a tube or tape.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/65095d1fd2196d002e49f67c/1695301159488-D2LX4N5AK5HCB7NHF883/Screenshot%2B2023-09-21%2Bat%2B13.58.08.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - The ins-and-outs of late medieval underwear - Hans Memling, Scenes from the Passion of Christ (detail), 1470-1</image:title>
      <image:caption />
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/65095d1fd2196d002e49f67c/1695304025488-GB2KB06TAFR6C3JTPGJY/01-013242+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - The ins-and-outs of late medieval underwear - Jean Wauquelin, Livre des Conquestes et faits d'Alexandre LDUT 0456, fol.18v (detail), c.1467</image:title>
      <image:caption />
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/65095d1fd2196d002e49f67c/53c77d01-e510-411a-9cf5-ccac6f2b0b8e/Drawing.sketchpad.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - The ins-and-outs of late medieval underwear - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/65095d1fd2196d002e49f67c/bae5ef38-29df-4dfa-a921-0ad39925f07a/IMG_0362_jpg.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - The ins-and-outs of late medieval underwear - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/65095d1fd2196d002e49f67c/1695229649388-V4NOCM1N1OHYCU8JKJYG/IMG_0329.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - The ins-and-outs of late medieval underwear - The braies when laid flat</image:title>
      <image:caption>A pair of white linen underwear laid on dark brown flooring.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/65095d1fd2196d002e49f67c/1695229646552-V5597EBOZ0OS2P0T2F12/IMG_0337.JPG</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - The ins-and-outs of late medieval underwear - The braies when worn</image:title>
      <image:caption>A waist-to-thighs shot of a white person in high-waisted running leggings, with white linen underwear over the top.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
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